Cochin, India

After clearing in we proceed to the designated yacht anchorage in the river between Bolgatty Island and the town of Ernaculum on the mainland. Cochin, now called Kochi, encompasses Ernaculum, Fort Cochin and several islands in the harbor area. About 25 cruising boats are in the anchorage which is very peaceful except for the ferries which weave their way through. Some ferries, playing loud music, are carrying tourists who wave and take pictures. We have to be alert when taking our afternoon cockpit shower.

At daybreak each morning several round woven "boats" perhaps 8ft across are paddled through the anchorage, usually with a man and woman aboard and sometimes a small child as well. Spending the day fishing with nets they return in the late afternoon to their camp on a narrow strip of land on the mainland shore. We think they must be the Indian contingent of sea gypsies.

The mainland city of Ernaculum is quite a jolt to the senses. This must be the most busy, dirty and noisy place we have ever visited. The streets are jam-packed with busses, cars and tuk-tuks. The bus drivers seem to own the road and go wherever they please while honking their horns continuously. The tuk-tuks fearlessly dart in and out and around the busses. Crossing the street is a hair-raising experience. The sidewalks are filled with people and when we stop to watch we see a continuous fashion show of women in beautiful jewel tone saris, each one more gorgeous than the one before. I feel rather dowdy in comparison.

Twice we take a ferry to Fort Cochin and enjoy the relative quiet and slower pace of its narrow winding streets. We stop to watch as fishermen operate the huge cantilevered Chinese fishing nets on the waters edge. This method of fishing is believed to have been introduced by traders from the 13th century court of Kublai Khan.

We stop in at the Kaschi Art Cafe and are seduced into ordering a second breakfast. We meet travellers from all over the world. Wandering about, we look at old churches and the 16th century "Dutch" Palace with its beautiful murals. We visit the Jewish synagogue, originally constructed in 1568, destroyed by the Portugese and then rebuilt in the mid 1600's. The Jewish community here is reportedly now reduced to just a few very elderly residents.

Peering through ancient doorways into dimly lit spice houses we are treated to the aroma of cloves or ginger. Men hoist huge burlap bags of spice onto their heads and carry it down the street. Bags are loaded onto long wooden carts, some onto trucks. What we see are remnants of the centuries old spice trade in Cochin, dating back to the 1st century AD.

Passage to India

We depart Galle in company with three other boats, one the British flagged Cap d'Or with friends Roger and Pam aboard. Crossing the Gulf of Munnar between Sri Lanka and southern India goes down in our ship's log as one of our worst passages ever. We had up to 35kts of wind from the northeast and big seas on the beam. We cannot remember ever having so much water coming on deck and into the cockpit. It helped to commiserate with the crew on the other boats.

In the lee of India the wind and seas calm down and we have pleasant sailing and motoring to Cochin--except for some annoying fishermen. Powered by large outboards the 30ft open fibreglass boats zoom up close to Moonshadow (too close), the occupants asking for food, drinks and cigarettes. We are disinclined to give them anything because aside from being pushy they don't appear particularly needy. Each boat hangs around awhile before giving up and speeding away.

Upon entering Cochin Harbor a port control boat shows us where to anchor and soon a young customs officer in white uniform comes aboard. Anand, who is well supplied with carbon paper, methodically organizes forms to be filled out. We learn that this is just his second yacht to clear in. Also that he does not plan to stay in government service. It doesn't pay well. Because he is from northern India he cannot speak Malayam, the local language. He communicates with his co-workers in English. Noticing that we have left a box empty on one form Anand asks what caste we belong to. He is surprised to learn that in the United States we do not have a caste system.

Anand then takes Richard and Roger on a three hour odyssey through various government offices which have been described as being straight out of Charles Dickens. Bundles of yellowed paper tied with string stacked on every conceivable surface. Rows and rows of ancient ledgers fill the bookshelves. Perhaps one or two ageing computers. As each official laboriously deals with Moonshadow's documents Richard turns to Roger and says "I supposed we have the British to thank for this."