Passage to India

We depart Galle in company with three other boats, one the British flagged Cap d'Or with friends Roger and Pam aboard. Crossing the Gulf of Munnar between Sri Lanka and southern India goes down in our ship's log as one of our worst passages ever. We had up to 35kts of wind from the northeast and big seas on the beam. We cannot remember ever having so much water coming on deck and into the cockpit. It helped to commiserate with the crew on the other boats.

In the lee of India the wind and seas calm down and we have pleasant sailing and motoring to Cochin--except for some annoying fishermen. Powered by large outboards the 30ft open fibreglass boats zoom up close to Moonshadow (too close), the occupants asking for food, drinks and cigarettes. We are disinclined to give them anything because aside from being pushy they don't appear particularly needy. Each boat hangs around awhile before giving up and speeding away.

Upon entering Cochin Harbor a port control boat shows us where to anchor and soon a young customs officer in white uniform comes aboard. Anand, who is well supplied with carbon paper, methodically organizes forms to be filled out. We learn that this is just his second yacht to clear in. Also that he does not plan to stay in government service. It doesn't pay well. Because he is from northern India he cannot speak Malayam, the local language. He communicates with his co-workers in English. Noticing that we have left a box empty on one form Anand asks what caste we belong to. He is surprised to learn that in the United States we do not have a caste system.

Anand then takes Richard and Roger on a three hour odyssey through various government offices which have been described as being straight out of Charles Dickens. Bundles of yellowed paper tied with string stacked on every conceivable surface. Rows and rows of ancient ledgers fill the bookshelves. Perhaps one or two ageing computers. As each official laboriously deals with Moonshadow's documents Richard turns to Roger and says "I supposed we have the British to thank for this."