Bangkok

After a couple of weeks at anchor we move Moonshadow to an outer dock at the marina where she will stay while we take a 3 week trip to Bangkok, Cambodia and Vietnam. We fly Air Asia to Bangkok, a city of several million people, then catch a bus to the Banglamphu area. We take a room at Baan Sabai Guesthouse. A guesthouse is similar to a hostel but we have our own room and bath.

Early in the evening while sitting at a sidewalk cafe we spot English friends Pam and Roger of the sailboat Cap d'Or. They join us for dinner and we discover that they are staying nearby and have a similar trip itinerary. In the morning Richard and I tour other guesthouses in search of a room with no mosquitos. We move to the Mango Lagoon Guesthouse.

A brief walk from where we are staying, the Chao Phraya River is close to flood stage and rather turbulent. We hop onto one of the many ferry boats and head downriver. As the ferry zooms from pier to pier the boatman at the rear struggles to pull the ferry close enough to the dock so passengers can get on or off. We leap off and head for Chinatown where we spend the afternoon wandering the narrow streets and alleys. Each section of a street has rows of shops with a particular specialty: jewelry, shoes, Chinese lanterns, colorful paper art and of course fresh flowers and food. We are objects of curiosity as we sit down for a coffee at a traditional coffee house amongst the regulars, a group of old men for whom this must be a second home.

The next day we walk to the National Museum where our favorite exhibit is the collection of royal funeral chariots. These elaborate vehicles are kept in a huge garage-like building and when necessary can still be used to carry the urn containing the remains of a member of the royal family. One chariot, built in 1785 by Rama I weighs 40 tons and is pulled by 300 men. Unfortunately taking photos is not allowed.

After eating lunch overlooking the river we walk through the amulet market on our way to Wat Phra Kaeo and adjoining Grand Palace. My below-the-knee pants are not deemed proper enough for this most holy of Buddhist sites so I am issued the tailored, Thai version of a sarong.
The wat is dazzling with its varied structures and statues of gold, bright colors, tile work, mirrors and colored glass. Inside the largest building resides the Emerald Buddha which, although quite small, is the focal point for the crowds of Thais who come here. Surrounding the wat is an arcade, the walls covered with murals depicting the ancient tale, the Ramayana. Artists continually work at restoring these painted scenes which are damaged by the humidity.

We are only allowed to see part of the Grand Palace compound even though it is no longer used by the royal family except for ceremonial purposes. And only the outside and garden area at that. We thought the brick red, blue and sometimes green tile roofs and rooflines were quite striking. We caught a gardener at work against this background.

For more information and a few pictures of Thai palaces click on www.palaces.thai.net