Saturday, August 26, 2006

Phuket Island, Thailand



Phuket Island (pronounced poo-get) encompasses 800 sq. km and is connected to the mainland by a bridge. There is much commercial growth along the major roads, especially in the area of Phuket town and to the south. The northern part of the island is less developed with a small protected rainforest as well as coconut, rubber and cashew nut plantations.

While anchored at Ao Chalong we rent a Suzuki jeep for a couple of days at 700 baht ($18 U.S.) per day so we can drive around and see some of the island. The Suzuki is the cheapest rental other than a motorbike and we decide it is too rainy for that.

We tour the southern part of the island stopping at west coast beach communities and a wat (Buddhist temple). High on a hill we find a lighthouse and adjacent shrine. The shrine is surrounded by carved elephants of all sizes, hundreds of them. When Thais visit the shrine they often bring an elephant as an offering but usually a small one of a few inches. Elephants are objects of reverence here in Thailand.

The beach towns are pretty quiet this time of year when the weather can be rainy and unpredictable. We see several tsunami evacuation route signs, erected in the past year.
Damage from the Dec. 2004 tsunami is hard to find as much effort and money has gone into recovery and rebuilding. The government of Thailand wanted tourists coming back to Phuket as soon as possible. We do see a large vacant oceanfront area now and then, where a damaged resort must have been torn down and cleared away.

Along the coast road near the edge of a cliff overlooking the ocean we see a large number of spirit houses. Many homes and businesses have a spirit house, which looks like an elaborate colorful bird house set on a pedestal. This is placed in front of the building. The spirit house needs to be more attractive than the main house so that the spirits will want to live there rather than causing trouble in the family home or business. When a spirit house is to be discarded it needs to be placed by a banyan tree. We are not sure if there was a banyan tree at this roadside site or if these spirit houses were placed there because of the tsunami.

In our travels around the island we stop to check out marinas and boat yards. Boat Lagoon Marina was full as was their haulout facility. Next door the Royal Phuket Marina was not full, most likely because it is expensive. We tour Ratanachi Slipway, a shipyard which will also haul out yachts.

Yacht Haven Marina at the NE end of Phuket Island is in a beautiful peaceful setting. The marina is full but the anchorage on either side looks great. We decide to sail Moonshadow this way soon.

Sunday, August 06, 2006

Ao Chalong, Phuket


A rough estimate of boats anchored at Ao Chalong is perhaps 25 cruising boats plus over a hundred local boats-ferries, junks and other traditional sailing craft, catamarans and all manner of power boats-all for the purpose of taking tourists out fishing, diving and snorkelling or to the smaller islands. Very few of these boats move from their moorings at this time of year. I'm not sure I want to be here in December and January at the height of the tourist season.

Chalong Bay shallows quite a distance from shore. We anchor just beyond the catamarans in 12 to 14 feet of water. We have to row a long way but as always we tell ourselves we are building muscle and staying in shape. We find landing at the steps halfway out the long pier to be slippery and dangerous so we land Shadow on the narrow beach in front of Jimmy's Lighthouse Restaurant. As this is a very well protected bay there is little surf.

The government officials we need to see are all in one small building at the head of the pier. This is unusual. We often get a self-guided tour of town when we check into a country. After an hour of filling out forms for immigration, customs and the port captain we get our tourist visas (obtained in Kuala Lumpur) stamped for two months. We can then return to immigration for a 28 day extension. If we had not applied for the visas at a Thai consulate outside of Thailand we would have been granted only 28 days, at which time we would have to leave the country to obtain a new visa.

Moonshadow is granted a 6 month stay, then we have to take her out of Thailand or apply for an extension through a marina or boatyard. Arriving in a country by boat is a bit more complicated than flying in for a 2 week holiday.

One of the first things we notice about Phuket Island is that it is a little more westernized than what we saw of Malaysia. This is undoubtedly because it is a major tourist destination. We especially appreciate the clean restrooms with western toilets in place of the traditional Asian squat variety.

We are also finding the Thai food to be fresher and more tasty than what was available in Malaysia and Indonesia. We had already developed a liking for Thai food while back in the states. And, to the detriment of our cruising budget, Phuket has an ample supply of coffee extablishments which rival Starbucks.