Kerala
Cochin lies in the central part of the state of Kerala in southwest India. Kerala has a population of about 35 million--a drop in the bucket of one billion for all of India. It is reportedly the only state with more women than men as well as the state with the highest literacy rate (90%). Kerala had a traditional matrilineal kinship system until it was abolished 30 years ago.
Wanting to see some of the countryside we join a group of a dozen cruisers and with a guide set off by speeding bus to the backwaters. People still live a traditional lifestyle along this network of rivers, canals and lakes. We get into large dugout canoes, each propelled along a canal by a man with a long pole. Passing under a canopy of leafy tree branches we spot an occasional brightly colored kingfisher. Small houses with vegetable gardens, chickens and ducks are set back from the banks of the canal. We pass women standing in the water doing their laundry. We stop to watch women making coir rope by twisting strands together. Coir comes from the coconut husk. At lunchtime we leave the canoes and board a larger motorized traditional boat and are served a delicious meal before exploring the larger waterways. It always seems like the height of luxury to be seved food and drink and be ferried about on someone elses boat.
A trip on an Indian train was also on our list of things to do so we take a short trip to Trichur (Thrissur) considered to be the cultural capital of Kerala. At the railway station we are presented wth a wide choice of ticket prices and accomodations. We economize and go for 3rd class. Large signs posted about the station list at least 20 rules and regulations for passengers. When the diesel powered train pulls into the station the numerous 40-some year old cars appear to be full. A crowd of us climb aboard anyway and we make our way through the train (which includes a "ladies only" car) until we finally find places on facing bench seats. Numerous fans line the ceiling of the car. There are bars across the open windows. Hawkers push their way down the narrow aisle selling snacks, bottled water and hot tea. A man comes through selling books. Beggars shuffle through--a man missing a leg, a young woman with a tiny baby, an old man half blind making a sing-song pitch for coins.
Arriving in Trichur we catch a tuk tuk to the business section of town and wander about before checking into the Hotel Luciya Palace (always there is a grand sounding name). In the morning we walk through the grounds of the large Hindu temple in the center of town. We cannot enter the temple itself because we are not Hindu. But we do find the temple elephants, five of them. They are quite large and each is shackled to a huge shady tree. We also visit the well preserved Sakthan Thampuran Palace, several hundred years old and now the site of a very nice archeological museum.
Before we leave Cochin we are invited to have lunch at Mr. Nasar's house. Mr. Nasar is the local cruisers' helper and will transport you in his water taxi, bring fuel to your boat and assist with anything you might need. Mr. Nasar, his wife and 4 children are Muslim and live in a very small house near Fort Cochin. Forty families of different religions live around a large dirt courtyard-like area and Mr. Nasar says they all get along well together.
Wanting to see some of the countryside we join a group of a dozen cruisers and with a guide set off by speeding bus to the backwaters. People still live a traditional lifestyle along this network of rivers, canals and lakes. We get into large dugout canoes, each propelled along a canal by a man with a long pole. Passing under a canopy of leafy tree branches we spot an occasional brightly colored kingfisher. Small houses with vegetable gardens, chickens and ducks are set back from the banks of the canal. We pass women standing in the water doing their laundry. We stop to watch women making coir rope by twisting strands together. Coir comes from the coconut husk. At lunchtime we leave the canoes and board a larger motorized traditional boat and are served a delicious meal before exploring the larger waterways. It always seems like the height of luxury to be seved food and drink and be ferried about on someone elses boat.
A trip on an Indian train was also on our list of things to do so we take a short trip to Trichur (Thrissur) considered to be the cultural capital of Kerala. At the railway station we are presented wth a wide choice of ticket prices and accomodations. We economize and go for 3rd class. Large signs posted about the station list at least 20 rules and regulations for passengers. When the diesel powered train pulls into the station the numerous 40-some year old cars appear to be full. A crowd of us climb aboard anyway and we make our way through the train (which includes a "ladies only" car) until we finally find places on facing bench seats. Numerous fans line the ceiling of the car. There are bars across the open windows. Hawkers push their way down the narrow aisle selling snacks, bottled water and hot tea. A man comes through selling books. Beggars shuffle through--a man missing a leg, a young woman with a tiny baby, an old man half blind making a sing-song pitch for coins.
Arriving in Trichur we catch a tuk tuk to the business section of town and wander about before checking into the Hotel Luciya Palace (always there is a grand sounding name). In the morning we walk through the grounds of the large Hindu temple in the center of town. We cannot enter the temple itself because we are not Hindu. But we do find the temple elephants, five of them. They are quite large and each is shackled to a huge shady tree. We also visit the well preserved Sakthan Thampuran Palace, several hundred years old and now the site of a very nice archeological museum.
Before we leave Cochin we are invited to have lunch at Mr. Nasar's house. Mr. Nasar is the local cruisers' helper and will transport you in his water taxi, bring fuel to your boat and assist with anything you might need. Mr. Nasar, his wife and 4 children are Muslim and live in a very small house near Fort Cochin. Forty families of different religions live around a large dirt courtyard-like area and Mr. Nasar says they all get along well together.
posted by Anita @ 7:47 AM
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