Across the Arabian Sea
We leave Cochin Feb. 17th along with five other boats hailing from Switzerland, Ireland, New Zealand and two from Sweden. One Swedish yacht, Li, we had not seen in years until Cochin. We had sailed in French Polynesia with Boris and Lizabeth in 2002.
The boats spread out after the first day and are no longer in sight of one another. We have calm seas with 8-10 kts just forward of the beam--easy sailing most days. We check into the Indian Ocean/Red Sea HF radio net and one morning learn the location of drift nets to avoid. But Moonshadow is captured by one and stopped cold one evening at midnight. Before long we are able to sail off the net. Our long keel is an advantage here plus we have a metal strap across the opening between the keel and the rudder (thank you Dave King) which keeps nets from catching. Two other yachts were trapped in drift nets, one for five hours.
The steering paddle on our Monitor steering vane broke off one afternoon. The Monitor is close to 20 years old so I guess we have to expect a failure now and then. Fortunately we had a line on it. Richard was able to repair it--not an easy job at sea. It is a bit shorter but still works well.
Flying fish leap aboard just about every night. We try to grab them and toss them back into the sea before they beat themselves to death. One night a flying fish manages to propel itself through an open port into the head. That would have been startling if Richard or I had been in there at the time.
Coalition forces military ships patrol the gulf (Gulf of Aden, Gulf of Oman) and we occasionally hear one on VHF radio. We are surprised to actually see a U.S. warship when we are two days from Oman. It is reassuring considering the threat of piracy in the approach to the Red Sea.
After eleven days we reach Oman. This is our longest passage since crossing the Pacific Ocean to the Marquesas. As we approach the port of Salalah we are struck by the contrast between the barren brown cliffs in front of us and the tropical landscape we have left behind. The port is quite modern with new cranes for lifting containers on and off the huge ships that stop here.
We anchor off to one side of the harbor. Soon we are approached by a harbor control boat bearing the yacht agent Mohammed, who cuts an impressive figure in his flowing white robes. That evening a group of us go up the hill to the aptly named Oasis Club where we enjoy a delicious BBQ, especially appreciated after many days at sea. We meet several crew members from the Fort Austin, a supply ship for the British navy. Four of us are invited to come for a tour the next morning.
The city of Salalah is a few miles from the port and quite spread out. People here drive cars. Not much public transportation and few motorbikes. We see almost no women on the street here, only men. At Lulu's Supermarket a few women are shopping. They wear the abeyya, a loose black robe which covers them from head to toe. Only their eyes are visable. At the local souq (market) we find scarves, swords and decorative glass perfume bottles. Again we see few women. A shop owner tells Richard if he returns in the evening he will see women choosing perfumes for their bath. We buy frankincense, an aromatic resin which comes from the sap of the frankincense tree which grows in southern Oman.
Sharing a rental car with fellow cruisers we explore the surrounding countryside. Camels roam freely, some near the highway. At the Al Balid archeological site, ruins of the centuries old city of Dhufa are being excavated. We chat with an archeologist who is from Missouri. A new museum is just being completed on the grounds.
Driving through the hills we see make-shift dwellings and lots of camels. There is little vegetation. We find our way to Wadi Darbat (a wadi is a river bed) and see donkeys and more camels, some drinking from the tree-lined river. We take an excessive number of camel photos. The local people must find it odd.
At Ayn Razat, an oasis of natural springs which form pools and then flow into a small river, families are having picnics. Children are playing in the river. In an adjoining park, pathways wind through grass and flower beds. Several young women in abeyyas sit under an enormous spreading shade tree. I don't dare to intrude with my camera. This great photo will have to remain in my mind.
The boats spread out after the first day and are no longer in sight of one another. We have calm seas with 8-10 kts just forward of the beam--easy sailing most days. We check into the Indian Ocean/Red Sea HF radio net and one morning learn the location of drift nets to avoid. But Moonshadow is captured by one and stopped cold one evening at midnight. Before long we are able to sail off the net. Our long keel is an advantage here plus we have a metal strap across the opening between the keel and the rudder (thank you Dave King) which keeps nets from catching. Two other yachts were trapped in drift nets, one for five hours.
The steering paddle on our Monitor steering vane broke off one afternoon. The Monitor is close to 20 years old so I guess we have to expect a failure now and then. Fortunately we had a line on it. Richard was able to repair it--not an easy job at sea. It is a bit shorter but still works well.
Flying fish leap aboard just about every night. We try to grab them and toss them back into the sea before they beat themselves to death. One night a flying fish manages to propel itself through an open port into the head. That would have been startling if Richard or I had been in there at the time.
Coalition forces military ships patrol the gulf (Gulf of Aden, Gulf of Oman) and we occasionally hear one on VHF radio. We are surprised to actually see a U.S. warship when we are two days from Oman. It is reassuring considering the threat of piracy in the approach to the Red Sea.
After eleven days we reach Oman. This is our longest passage since crossing the Pacific Ocean to the Marquesas. As we approach the port of Salalah we are struck by the contrast between the barren brown cliffs in front of us and the tropical landscape we have left behind. The port is quite modern with new cranes for lifting containers on and off the huge ships that stop here.
We anchor off to one side of the harbor. Soon we are approached by a harbor control boat bearing the yacht agent Mohammed, who cuts an impressive figure in his flowing white robes. That evening a group of us go up the hill to the aptly named Oasis Club where we enjoy a delicious BBQ, especially appreciated after many days at sea. We meet several crew members from the Fort Austin, a supply ship for the British navy. Four of us are invited to come for a tour the next morning.
The city of Salalah is a few miles from the port and quite spread out. People here drive cars. Not much public transportation and few motorbikes. We see almost no women on the street here, only men. At Lulu's Supermarket a few women are shopping. They wear the abeyya, a loose black robe which covers them from head to toe. Only their eyes are visable. At the local souq (market) we find scarves, swords and decorative glass perfume bottles. Again we see few women. A shop owner tells Richard if he returns in the evening he will see women choosing perfumes for their bath. We buy frankincense, an aromatic resin which comes from the sap of the frankincense tree which grows in southern Oman.
Sharing a rental car with fellow cruisers we explore the surrounding countryside. Camels roam freely, some near the highway. At the Al Balid archeological site, ruins of the centuries old city of Dhufa are being excavated. We chat with an archeologist who is from Missouri. A new museum is just being completed on the grounds.
Driving through the hills we see make-shift dwellings and lots of camels. There is little vegetation. We find our way to Wadi Darbat (a wadi is a river bed) and see donkeys and more camels, some drinking from the tree-lined river. We take an excessive number of camel photos. The local people must find it odd.
At Ayn Razat, an oasis of natural springs which form pools and then flow into a small river, families are having picnics. Children are playing in the river. In an adjoining park, pathways wind through grass and flower beds. Several young women in abeyyas sit under an enormous spreading shade tree. I don't dare to intrude with my camera. This great photo will have to remain in my mind.
posted by Anita @ 7:50 AM
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