Kisap River

While we are docked at the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club (not quite as sumptuous as it sounds) we meet Jeff and Kathy who are also from Portland. They built their steel sloop Mirage and lived aboard before leaving Oregon in 1994 to go cruising.

After enjoying the convenience of dockside living for 4 days we head out again for the east side of Langkawi to explore the Kisap River. A couple of miles up this winding river we find a beautiful spot to anchor near a high cliff. We see no other yachts in the 5 days we are here-but then the Kisap is not noted in any of the cruising guides. We do see plenty of fishing boats however as they come and go every morning and evening. Even some quite large, maybe 60 ft, wooden cargo and fishing boats come by and dock at a wharf up river. There are sometimes as many as 20 people aboard who wave and call to us.

Every day we see a 3 ft monitor lizard swimming along, patrolling the shore. We see an occasional monkey and one day watch a large male macaque swim across a side channel of the Kisap. A few minutes later a small young monkey attempts to follow but turns around and swims back apparently deciding it is not a wise thing to do.

While out dinghy exploring we come upon two signs with arrows pointing to a particular channel through the mangroves. Rowing along this channel we come to a fishing village with many small boats tied along the river bank. We walk along small winding roads, passing small houses and gardens where, as usual, people seem surprised to see us. A common denominator in most of the less developed countries we have visited is that people seem puzzled by our desire to just wander about to see what's there. We are often asked "How did you get here"? Or, "Where are you going"?

Another day while rowing up a different side channel we came upon a stairway which led from the water up to the Barn Thai Restaurant, nestled in amongst the mangroves. It is also reachable by road and a rather long raised wooden walkway. Below the restaurant the resident monitor lizard was munching on a chicken carcass thrown down to him by the cook.

We go to the hole-in-the-wall anchorage on Moonshadow for a change of scenery. While having lunch with friends at the Fish Farm and Restaurant we strike up a conversation with 3 young women at the next table. The one who speaks some English tells us they are sisters on holiday from Kuwait. When asked if they are travelling alone she says "Oh yes, we are free"!

Bass Harbor

We return to Bass Harbor for appointments in Kuah with a recommended Chinese dentist appropriately named Dr. Chew. She cleans our teeth for U.S. $11 each and fills a small cavity for U.S. $8. We are quite pleased.

At the dinghy dock we run into John who lives aboard the Orient Explorer, a175ft former WWII submarine chaser. Retired from the U.S. Navy, John has been in charge of operation and maintenance of the ship for 5 years. The Dutch owner flies out once or twice a year. John invites us out for a tour.

The ship has been converted for passenger use and served as a ferry in the Baltic for many years. There are numerous cabins and two large dining areas. The galley still has much of its original equipment. An enormous bird cage shaped like a hot air balloon sits on the lower aft deck (the poop deck) where it is home to a few doves and other assorted birds. The ship's cat must love it. John envisions the Orient Explorer being used to take groups out on overnight fishing excursions.

Early one evening we join the Hash House Harriers (which originated in the U.S.) for one of their regular run/walk events. The Langkawi group combines ex-pats from several different countries with a few local people plus occasional unsuspecting yachties. We walk up and down hills and then clamber over a steep area of jagged rock. At least that describes what I was doing. At the finish ''virgin" runners (first timers) and others singled out for various offenses are instructed to chug-a-lug a beer while being doused with cold water. Slightly off color ditties were sung by those who knew the words.

While anchored out in the large bay we had some strong winds and three cruising boats dragged anchor in the middle of the night. An unattended 50ft wooden fishing boat on a mooring wandered a bit as well. The next morning Richard found the owner of the boat who said he would take care of it. But we had a repeat that night. Several yacht owners were out in their cockpits keeping an eye on the fishing boat as it, again, slowly dragged through the anchorage. The next morning we decided to check into the nearby Royal Langkawi Yacht Club marina for a couple of days.

Langkawi Anchorages

After a week doing town things we haul up the anchor and head off to check out some recommended anchorages. We first pull alongside the fuel barge in Bass Harbor and take on 200 liters of diesel. The barge is there for the convenience of the numberous ferries but will also sell fuel to yachts.

There is no wind so we motor for two hours to the "fjord" anchorage. We drop the hook in between two islands with 400 ft cliffs rising above us. The islands are covered with dense growth-trees, bushes and vines. A sea eagle swoops down behind us, snatches up a fish and flies away with it. Monkeys hidden in the trees erupt into raucous squabbling. At dusk a 25 ft longtail fishing boat with three Malay fisherman aboard comes into the anchorage for the night. These open wooden boats, common on the Malaysian coast and in the rivers, have loud lawnmower type engines. The propeller is attached to a 10 ft long shaft that hangs out over the stern of the boat.

The next morning we row around the shoreline in our dinghy. We see a 4 ft monitor lizard climb out of the water onto the rocks. Farther along we startle a family of otters. They swim away quickly but stop a couple of times to pop up and take a good look at us. Later we go for a swim off the boat. We haven't seen any sea snakes and very few jellyfish so we decide it's safe.

In the cockpit at daybreak each morning we listen to the sounds of the awakening jungle. Monkeys and a variety of birds including an owl who perhaps is saying "goodnight." The cicadas start up as the sun hits the east side of the islands and the sound grows, following the path of spreading light. We stay another day in this peaceful anchorage. Richard installs a new voltage regulator which ends up being a four hour project. On a boat there is always something that needs to be done.

We leave early the following morning for the "hole in the wall" anchorage. We just barely manage to stay ahead of a thunderstorm and spot a waterspout too few miles off our stern. After five hours we arrive at another beautiful anchorage but here we have the company of other cruising boats plus an occasional tour boat whizzing by. We meet friends for dinner at the Hole in the Wall Fish Farm and Restaurant. This is a floating restaurant that can only be reached by boat. While we are there a heavy rain falls in sheets for almost two hours.

In the morning we check the tide tables and head off in the dinghy to explore the Kilim River. We take our umbrellas. Brightly colored kingfishers fly across the river in front of us. Brahminy kites and sea eagles soar above us. We find a cave in a side channel that we row through, stirring up a couple of bats. Later we hear thunder and next to a cliff take refuge from the eventual downpour. We pop open the umbrellas and only get a little bit wet.