Penang by Motorbike

For less than $6 U.S. we rented a motorbike for 24 hours. The price included helmets and insurance (although it is unclear exactly what the coverage was.) I was just slightly terrified as we set off into the Georgetown morning traffic at the start of our circuit of the island. It should have been a 70 km trip but we took a few detours.

Our first stop was the Snake Temple and as advertised, draped over large framed pictures and other objects inside this unusual Buddhist temple, were green tree snakes and pit vipers. They didn't move, reputedly being under the influence of the burning incense. We declined offers of photos taken with the snakes.

After leaving the Snake Temple we spent a great deal of time trying to find a dot on our inadequate map identified as "Horse and Orchid Farm." After our third try at getting directions from locals who didn't speak much English we found ourselves up on a hill at the beautiful Equatorial Hotel. It's not necessary to pay to stay at these places. It can be fun just going in to take a look around--for free. The valet directed us back down the hill, where we came upon the "Orchid and Reptile Farm." We really didn't want to see more snakes.

Giving up on the horse and orchid combination we headed off down a winding side road that ended at a small fishing village. We had stopped in the shade when a local fisherman rode up on his motorbike. He spoke English quite well and told us about the effects of the tsunami on the island and on the fishing fleet. His village was in a well protected area and suffered no damage. He asked if we had seen any pirates coming up the strait from Singapore.

After stopping for nasi goreng (fried rice) in another small village we had a great ride though the hilly western side of Penang. There was very little traffic, just jungle and occasional rubber plantations and tropical fruit orchards.

Near the northwest corner of the island we pulled off at a sign that read Forest Recreation Park. Here we found a museum, covered picnic areas and a series of natural pools. Groups of young people, perhaps just out of school for the day, were swimming, eating and generally having a good time. The park had large maps showing an extensive network of trails including one to a botanical garden and a long steep trail to the top of Penang Hill.

Passing by the numerous beach resorts and souvenir shops along the north side of the island, we stopped for a cold drink and discovered "ais kacang." Similar to snow cones, they are made with shaved ice but with coconut milk and a choice of a variety of fruits and syrups--mango, strawberry, papaya, guava--and in the bottom we found a few corn kernels and pale green curly things (embryonic peas, beans?) which were also sweet. These hot tropical countries do wonderful things with fresh fruit.

The Temple of the Reclining Buddha with its definite Thai influence was our last stop. The Buddha is about 100 ft long and guarded by four large colorful dragons standing just outside. Directly across the street was a more beautiful and older (1805) Burmese Buddhist temple, the first built in Penang. Thirty foot lions stood outside the main building. In the garden was a large globe where we took photos of each other standing next to Malaysia.